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How many Yale degrees does it take to make a cup of coffee?!?!

The Teardos: How many Yale degrees does it take to make a cup of coffee?!?!

Friday, March 15, 2013

How many Yale degrees does it take to make a cup of coffee?!?!

More than four, apparently. Four collective Ivy League degrees between me and my wife, and that still doesn't cut it from time to time.

As you all know, Leslie and I have always been fond of the kitchen and its many associated and marvelous activities. Naturally, we both entered this marriage equipped with a host of fantastic kitchen accessories. Our one and only duplicate was, randomly, an ice cream maker. Odd. Anyway, when we registered, we were already pretty set with most things, and decided to go big on some upgrades (Shun knives, lion's head soup bowls, etc).

As a result of having a smaller registry, which due to our wonderful friends and family was completed prior to the wedding, we received a lot of gift cards to Williams-Sonoma. (BTW everyone, we are STILL looking for those blasted thank you notes amidst the remaining boxes. We are VERY grateful and we will send you notes as soon as we find them!!). Also, after your wedding, most places (including W-S) will give you six months to complete your registry, as well as 10% off any of those items.

With so many gift cards and the discount, we decided on finally purchasing the Breville Dual Boiler espresso machine. This is not one of those mindless, automatic jobs where you push a button and the thing does everything for you like some sort of coin-operated cheap thrill. No - this is as close to the real deal of a commercial machine as you can get without spending *thousands* of dollars. After the gift cards and discount, we landed the Breville DB for a quarter of the retail price.

Before diving into the rabbit hole of coffee, allow me to offer some perspective. My very favorite coffee shop in NYC is Zibetto Espresso Bar, on Sixth Ave between 56th and 57th. Though run by a Swede trained as a barista in Italy, the place is thoroughly Italian. Beside being one of the only places in Manhattan where you can get a proper cornetto (the Italian equivalent of a croissant, usually filled with apricot jam, custard or chocolate), it is a true espresso bar. There isn't a seat in the house. You stand at the marble bar, sip (or down) your espresso from a demitasse, or cappuccino from a properly proportioned 7 oz ceramic cup, and then go on your way.

Oh, and do as the Italians do and don't be caught dead drinking that cappuccino past 10:00 in the morning. *Maybe* 11:00, tops. Their beans are roasted, vacuum packed and imported from Bologna. Best of all, their coffee is at least $.50 cheaper than what you get at that ubiquitous coffee chain across the street, or the other two down the block in either direction (more on the S-monster later). Now, it's rumored that new baristas at Zibetto are trained for a solid *two months* before they are allowed to serve a customer. Two months! Before we got the espresso machine, I thought this was a tad excessive. And now I know why.

Folks, don't kid yourselves. It's difficult. There are so many factors to pulling a perfect shot of espresso. First of all, invest in a good grinder, and not just any grinder - a conical burr grinder. We now own two - a new one dedicated to espresso, and my other given to me for Christmas a couple years back by my very dear friend Paolo that I continue to use exclusively for French press. And yes, I know I'm beginning to sound like a coffee snob. What can I say? - it's a slippery slope! This may also start to seem like an expensive new hobby, but I guarantee the equipment, beans and everything else will pay for itself over and over again by us not ever going back to the jolly green giant we will call Buck.

Next, you need good coffee. Don't skimp here - you usually get what you pay for in this department. BUT - while you are first learning to pull shots, buy some really inexpensive coffee that you don't mind sacrificing. Trust me - you'll go through an entire pound of beans far sooner than you'll master pulling a shot. Once you get consistent, then switch to good coffee. Now, you might think to go for a really dark roast, but the best espressos are actually more of a medium roast. Do your research.

For each coffee, you need to find the precise grind, dose, and temperature - and it completely differs depending on the coffee. You might pull a couple bad shots before determining the correct variables for any given kind. Grind your coffee fresh for every shot, and start with making double shots. For whatever reason, they are easier to pull than single shots. Though we've pulled many a decent double shot, to this day we have yet to pull a satisfactory single shot.

Then, you need to tamp the ground beans at the precise pressure (30-40 lbs.). Place the portafilter in the group head, and pull. With practice, we gradually pulled some very tasty double shots, some even "perfect" with the correct balance of acidity, bitterness and sweetness.

Then, if the coffee were not hard enough, there's the milk, which in some respects is even more difficult and temperamental. Achieving good microfoam is no easy task, involving careful placement of the steam wand in the pitcher, just barely at the surface of the milk at first, and then sinking the wand to incorporate the foam you've just made into the rest of the milk until it reaches the perfect temperature (150-160 F).

Finally, there's the pour, and depending on how properly your milk has been steamed and your pouring technique, you can make beautiful designs called latte art that form on the crema, or top surface of the coffee.

This is where I am least consistent. I've posted several pictures below with initial attempts: a somewhat successful heart; two examples of a rather rudimentary rosetta; and even one that resembles a turkey, purely by accident!

FYI, I am leaving so many details out - if you want to know more specifics, feel free to contact us.

We are enjoying our new toys, but it is a commitment. The world of coffee is a craft, every bit as demanding as cooking or baking. I promise you, though, the knowledge and appreciation you will gain will make you never enter Buck's doors again. That establishment when started in Seattle was, I'm certain, one of integrity and commitment to making good coffee. The monster it has become is unfortunate, and not unlike it's counterparts in the fast food empire. Fortunately, the bastardization is not entirely universal, as I've known baristas that worked there who do take a lot of pride in what they do, and you can taste the difference. Sadly, those experiences for me have been far and few between.

So the next time you want a cup of Joe, or more specifically, un po' di caffè, resist the urge and convenience of a drive-thru, find a local shop with a bona fide espresso machine and trained baristas, and take pride in the fact that you made the right choice for humanity.

One more thing: don't forget to tip!

 

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